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2012年9月17日 星期一

Are You Caring For Orchids Properly Or Are You Doomed for Failure?


How many times have I heard "don't grow orchids they are so hard to keep alive". I've lost count! To me it's the lack of knowledge that breeds negativity and causes people to avoid something that they may well be very good at doing.

This is a shame because these wonderful flowers bring much joy to people who are caring for their orchids properly.

I want to go on and show you that perhaps caring for orchids isn't as mysterious and difficult as some people would have you think. In fact I'm more than confident that if you stick to a simple set of rules, that there is no reason why you can't become the next orchid expert.

So caring for orchids lets look at the basics that you need to be successful.

1. Light, different orchids require different types of light. Some prefer a shaded light whilst others are happy in a brighter light. In almost all cases however direct sunlight is not a good idea for their rather delicate nature.

2. Water, it's important not to over water when caring for orchids. Only water when the soil has dried. This is a general rule as some varieties will need more water than others, so it's essential that you understand the individual needs of each variety that you grow.

3. Temperature, orchids can stand quite diverse temperatures and again it is important to get to grips with what each variety thrives best on. As a general rule sixty degrees Fahrenheit at night

and up to around seventy in the day would be a fair temperature range to aim for.

4. Humidity, as a basic guide in dry conditions humidity is low and in cooler areas the humidity would be higher. We are looking to achieve something like sixty to eighty percent humidity. A simple way to achieve this is using a small flat container filled with a small amount of water and stones. You might like to get a humidity meter to measure how successful your efforts are.

So those are the basic needs of caring for orchids. I thoroughly recommend that you check out whats suitable for specific varieties though as they do have different requirements. I wish you well and much success in caring for orchids.




Lynne Ivatt is an orchid enthusiast learn the rest of her essential secrets to becoming an orchid growing expert at caring for orchids [http://www.completeorchidcare.com/basics-of-orchid-care.html] visit [http://www.completeorchidcare.com]





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2012年5月21日 星期一

Caring for Orchids: 4 Steps to Repotting Orchids Safely


You may have read that orchids repotting should be standard practice when buying a new plant. I think that is only partially correct.

It is true that orchids bought in stores more often then not will need to be repotted but in my opinion the standard practice should be to always check the medium and the root network health conditions, but the actual repotting should occur only when necessary.

Your initial concern when repotting orchids should always be researching the specie to make sure your orchid has been correctly potted in the first place.

Sometimes, when the 'business' become more important then the orchid, a generic medium may be used instead of an orchids repotting mix specific to that particular specie.

That is OK from a nursery point of view because it creates the favorable conditions needed by the young plant to establish itself but if the perfect conditions are provided, the same orchid would certainly grow much stronger.

We need to keep in mind though that repotting places a good amount of stress on the plant, plus, in a year or two at the most, repotting will become necessary due to the medium nutrients depletion.

Therefore, if the plant is in good health and the medium in good conditions there really is no reason to put your plant through such a strain.

So, once it has become a necessity... which is the best time for orchids repotting?

When new growth is just beginning; typically this occurs in spring.

When the days start to get longer the plant begins its bulk growing phase. As the plant is getting stronger it will be much less stressful to adapt to the new medium.

Sometimes this may happen in late spring/early summer, which is about as late as you want it to be.

Orchids repotting will often improve the state of health of a mature plant since, as part of the process, you would trim out the old decaying roots which allows the plant to focus its energies on the new growths.

Avoid repotting orchids in fall and/or winter. The days are getting shorter and the plant is resting. At this stage your orchid is growing very slowly and it would take a very long time to adapt to the new medium therefore prolonging the stress caused by repotting.

Also, repotting orchids should not occur in the middle of summer. Especially if you live in a geographical area where summer is hot but not humid. The plant will be using all its energy to overcome the heat and repotting at this time could cause too much stress.

Most importantly, do not repot if any blooming activity has begun.

Here are the four basic steps to orchids repotting:

1. Hold the orchid near the roots and carefully lift the entire plant, paying attention not to damage any of the leaves or the still tender new growths.

2. Note the color of the orchid roots.

If you see a couple of white roots, that's fine as long as the majority of the roots are light or dark green in color. Several pure white roots may mean that the plant needed to be watered more often, keep that in mind for the future care.

When the roots are white but have bright green tips, or side growths, it means that the orchid is actively growing new roots. This is the perfect timing for repotting orchids.

Carefully break down the old medium and inspect the entire root network for any signs of rotting. If any of the roots appear to be in decay, remove them using a sterilized nipper.

Usually, if you are not sure, you can stay on the safe side by simply removing any root that is black or brown in color. These roots are in decay or pretty close to it.

Orchids bought in a store should always be checked since roots decay is a fairly common occurrence with store-bought orchids.

3. Sterilize the roots network by spraying or dousing in Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) to prevent fungi and other possible infections.

4. Carefully place the orchid in a new, sterilized pot.

Contrary to the usual increase in pot size, as in the case of soil based plants, with orchids, the opposite is not uncommon. Very often you will 'downsize' the pot as you may end up trimming up to 80% of the old roots.

Orchids grow new roots at the base of the plant in an outward fashion, not in the pot like soil plants do, therefore there is no need to leave room for growth in the pot.

Add the orchid medium around the roots of the orchid. If the new mix contains bark or coconut, you should let it soak in water overnight before using it for repotting.

Make sure to leave the base of the plant above the medium surface level - Lightly press the new medium from the outside toward the roots and add medium to fill the space if necessary.

You don't want to pack the medium as tight as you would do with soil; just enough to keep the orchid standing while avoiding leaving big pockets of air which could reduce the medium's moisture retention ability.

After repotting orchids you should position the plant/s in a shady location for a couple of weeks (no direct sunlight). Let it recover for more or less a week before the first watering session; at this stage your plant is dealing with some degree of stress and is not ready cope with over watering.

Important: Some orchids do not require orchid medium. A popular specie we can use as example is the Vanda. Such plants are classified as advanced orchids and special orchid baskets are used by orchid's growers for these types of specimens.

In these cases orchids repotting is very simple. After breaking down the old medium, if any is present, simply place the orchid in the center of the basket and tie down the roots. I like to use some kind of organic string which will break down on its own.

Repotting orchids is not as complicated as it may appear when researching the subject at first.

If your orchid is healthy simply try to match the composition of the existing medium and pay attention to the different way the new medium retains moisture. All you need to do is to adjust your watering session's frequency.

Make sure your plant's roots have time to absorb and consume the moisture before the next watering session.

Of course moist depletion would kill your plant faster than excessive watering but curiously enough a disproportionate greater number of domestic orchids die because of too much moist rather than for lack of it.

In time you will be able to tell if your orchids need water just by looking at them but in the meantime there is a tool you may use if you want a safer way to determine the right rhythm for your watering sessions.

It is normally called moisture meter, there are a few different brands but this one has been designed specifically for orchids.

The one I use is actually more than just a moisture meter. It also measure light intensity, humidity in the air, temperature, medium acidity and alkalinity (detailed info link at the bottom).

Basically a 'horticulturist dream come true' type of tool... it only costs thirty something dollars and frankly, now that I have been using it for about a year, I can't imagine being without it.

The biggest problem with repotting orchids used to be upsetting the watering rhythm and consequential temporary inappropriate watering. This tool takes all the guessing work out of the equation and makes taking care of orchids in general really easy peasy.




Dalia Cruz grew up in the Philippines where Dalia's mother has learned about orchids from Grandma. When they moved to the US they applied their knowledge to caring for orchids indoor. Collectively they have over eighty years of orchid growing experience.

For more great information on orchids repotting and how to maximize your orchids growth visit http://www.OrchidsGrowingBlog.com.





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2012年5月3日 星期四

Guidelines in Growing Orchids


Orchids are such a beauty. They can captivate the senses of any spectator. Any gardener is not complete without an orchid in his own area. Orchids are unique in such a manner that they do not require soil and more so, they can grow attached to a branch or simply put, in the air.

Orchids can be traced back to the ancient history of Greeks. Since then they become symbols of matters like love and purity. Some of them give off amazing smells that can reach many meters from the place they are planted. They are now used for many purposes not only as decorations but also as corsages and fancy necklaces recognizing visitors and guests.

There is a wide variety of orchids. They require different needs too. Although it is burdensome to maintain their elegance and perhaps their fragrance, the rewarding result can wipe all the sweats away. If you happen to be fond of growing orchids or you are on the verge of trying to plant your first one, here are some tips that will help you make it through. These tips are quite common in the internet but they can surefire your success.

a. Getting started- the first thing of course that you need to do is to select your orchid type. This greatly depends on your preferences as well as your climate in the area. Most of the orchids love warm and humid temperatures. If your place is a cold one, then you can choose one that is highly adaptable like the Phalaenopsis. You can actually ask for your local nursery for such supplies.

b. Adequate light and humidity- one of the primary requirements of orchid growing is giving the plant ample sunlight exposure. They need this to make their bodies strong and to stimulate faster flowering. If you grow them inside your house or in your patio, you can bring it outside to be exposed every morning. However, there are also varieties that require less sunlight so that it still boils down to the type of orchid you have in your possession.

c. Planting height- contrary to what most believe, there are orchid varieties that can grow in the soil. Although it has been said that the plants grow well in the air, there is no saying that such cannot thrive with a soil. There are many types that can even be planted on pots. Terrestrial orchids are what they are called. The height of the planting site should also be carefully determined as there are orchids that love great heights as they derive much nutrients from the air. There are those too that like to planted in the lower level of the branches or trunks of trees.

d. Pruning- this is essential for the orchid to maintain its shape as well as to remove the dead roots and plant parts that prove useless to the plant. It can be done periodically depending on the rate of the growth of you orchid. This also entails one to repot if your orchid is of terrestrial in nature. Using garden pruning scissors, this is quite easy to do by just locating roots and stems that are dark brown. There are also roots that are already rotten.




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2012年1月23日 星期一

Favorite Orchids - Phragmipedium


General Description

Phragmipediums are other types of slipper orchids, but these hail from Central and South America. These relatives of the Asian slipper orchids are indigenous to the mountainous areas in Peru, Ecuador, Columbia, Bolivia, Brazil, and as far north as southern Mexico. This genus was founded in 1896 when botanist Robert Rolfe separated these orchids from Cypripediums, another slipper orchid genus. This genus takes its name from the Greek words phragma, meaning fence, and pedilon, meaning slipper, in reference to the fence-like division of the ovary and the slipper-shaped lip.

These orchids have a sympodial growth habit. They are either epiphytic or terrestrial and the majority of these grow in elevations between 1,300-7,200 feet (400 to 2,200 meters). Similar to other slipper orchids, Phragmipediums form tight fans instead of pseudobulbs. Each fan can carry up to eight rich dark green leaves that are long and flat with a leathery texture. The leaves can be as long as 3 feet (92 cm.) and as wide as two inches (5 cm.) During blooming season, inflorescences emerge from the leaves. These spikes can measure up to 3 feet (92 cm.) long and bear up to 15 flowers in a sequential pattern.

Phragmipediums are rapidly growing orchids that produce complex but uniquely amazing blooms. Many flowers are long and hanging, and in some cases, may measure up to 30 inches (76 cm.) from the tip of the dorsal sepal to the tip of lateral petal. In these orchids, the lateral petals are tail-like, long, narrow, twisted and often dangling. This "mustache" look is perhaps the reason why some people call this genus the "Mandarin" orchids. The flowers also have a shield-like staminode, a 3-locular ovary, and a large pouch-like lip that is curved inwards. The column in the center of the flower is often covered with fine hairs, giving the center a unique, furry look. The flowers usually come in shades of green and brown which may sometimes be accented with stripes or yellow and purple markings. Some varieties come in bright red, pink, orange, red, and magenta.

The Phragmipedium genus is a small group of orchids, comprised of only about 30 species, a few varietal forms and one natural hybrid. The popular species include P. boissierianum, P. caudatum, P. longifolium, P. sargentianum, and the recently discovered P. kovachii. These species have also contributed to a number of excellent hybrids that are increasingly becoming popular. These newer hybrids tend to be more vigorous and easy growing, plus they are available in a broader range of colors compared to most of the species.

Phragmipediums used to be expensive plants. Fortunately, Hawaiian growers have perfected the culture of these orchids and have made them commercially available as blooming size plants. Now the cost of Phragmipediums is very reasonable so that more people are able to enjoy and grow these orchids in their homes.

Cultural Information

Orchids belonging to this genus, although very similar to their Asian relatives, differ somewhat from Paphiopedilums in terms of their cultural requirements. In general, they have the same humidity and temperature needs, but they like to be wetter than Paphiopedilums. In addition, they prefer more light, just like the Cattleyas.

High light levels are ideal for best growing and blooming results. The ideal amount of sunshine is about four hours on a south or west-facing windowsill. Under lights, they will do well about 15 to 30 cm. below an eight-tube fluorescent fixture, or under an HID sodium or metal halide lamp. The amount of light should be at the brightest possible level without burning the leaves. This level of higher light intensity will produce more colorful flowers. You can tell if the leaves are prone to leaf burn by feeling them during the brightest time of the day. If they feel hot, then they are in danger of burning. To prevent burning, increase the air circulation or reduce the light.

These orchids like intermediate temperatures. Avoid extreme temperatures, that is, lower than 55°F (13°C) on winter nights and higher than 90°F (32°C) on summer days. Ensure that the nighttime temperatures are cooler by at least 15°F (8°C) than daytime temperatures to promote flower formation.

Unlike many other orchids, Phragmipediums need to be kept constantly moist especially during active growth. In fact, these orchids are commonly grown in a shallow platter of fresh water (filled about.5 in. (1 cm.) deep). In their natural habitats, these orchids grow by streams so their roots are soaked during active growth. Use distilled water or rainwater instead of tap water, if possible. When your Phragmipedium is not actively growing, you can let the roots dry out slightly before watering.

The recommended humidity level for these orchids is between 60% to 70%. If the humidity is lower, your Phragmipedium will still grow, although at a slower pace. If the humidity is too high, ensure that there is enough air circulation to prevent molding and rotting.

Weak but frequent fertilizing using a balanced formula is best for these orchids. During spring and summer, use one-eighth to one-quarter of the manufacturer recommend strength every week. During autumn and winter, reduce the frequency to every two weeks. Leach or wash your plants' media thoroughly with water regularly to prevent fertilizer salt buildups that can harm your orchids' roots.

When choosing a potting medium, select a fine mixture that retains water well. Fir bark mixed with chunks of charcoal, sphagnum moss or perlite will work well. Since the potting medium is constantly damp, it breaks down more quickly than the rapidly draining ones. Hence, more frequent repotting is necessary. This is usually once a year as new growths start.

Mature Phragmipediums reward the grower with larger flower sizes and brighter colors than first-bloom seedlings. As such, you should not repeatedly divide your Phragmipediums. You should allow them to grow as a large plant in a decent-size pot. To encourage blooming, apply weak doses of fertilizer and, if necessary, higher temperatures, more water, and/or brighter light. The flowers of these plants will naturally fall off the spikes before they wilt.




Michael Anderson is co-author with Steve Frowine (author of four orchid books including the Orchid title of a well known series) of the web site, UncutOrchids.com. For a free, 40-part video course on orchid care, click now on this URL: UncutOrchids.com [http://UncutOrchids.com]. Michael lives in the enchanting town of Guanajuato, Mexico, where he also offers Guanajuato houses.





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2012年1月17日 星期二

Guidelines on Caring For Orchids in a Greenhouse


Caring for orchids does require replicating growing conditions that they would have in their natural habitat. In terms of temperature, this can be accommodated in one of three basic greenhouse types. They are the hothouse, the temperate house and the cool house.

The ever popular Phalaenopsis species prefer the hothouse treatment. The temperature during night time should not fall below 65 degrees F. (18 degrees C) the daytime temperatures, particularly in summer can be allowed to rise to 86-90 degrees F (30-32 degrees C) without any detriment to the plant.

The Cattleya Orchids prefer the temperate or intermediate greenhouse. The temperature during night time should not fall below 59 degrees F. (15 degrees C) Daytime temperatures must be stable around 86 degrees F (30 degrees C).

The Odontoglossum Orchids prefer the cool greenhouse, because these plants mostly come from high mountain tropical areas, the night time temperature should not fall below 54 degrees F. (12 degrees C) The daytime temperature is equally important, particularly during summer time, and should go no higher than 75-77 degrees F. (24-25 degrees C)

In poor sunlight conditions, on cold winter days, it will be difficult to raise the indoor temperature to the desired level in all three types of greenhouses, therefore, it would be advisable to set the heating to contrast the night and day temperatures by at least 9 degrees F. (5 degrees C)

Light is extremely important to the health and well being of your plants and consequently to their ability to produce beautiful blooms. In terms of light requirement orchids can be split into three groups, namely the full shade, the full sun or the intermediate situation. This third condition is most common because the majority of orchids are epiphytic.

You can use a foot candle meter to measure the level of light in your greenhouse. Whilst there are books that give guidelines they don't always fit every situation, therefore, experimentation and experience become the order of the day. Generally speaking more shade should be provided in summer time to ensure correct temperature and humidity and vice versa in winter.

A properly balanced light system will result in beautiful, healthy plants which produce regular blooms. Shade in your greenhouse can be provided by dark colored nets of various sizes of mesh.

Plants that originate from tropical climates will need a high level of humidity in the greenhouse. It should never go below 50%. A rise in temperature results in a drop in humidity levels. In larger greenhouses sophisticated systems may need to be installed, however, for the smaller greenhouse humidity can be provided by spraying the areas beneath the shelves or by placing containers filled with water. It does help if your flooring is sand or gravel which gives off water. Opening windows on the shady side of the greenhouse can also be beneficial in creating humidity.

Good ventilation is also required for growing healthy orchids, whichever type of greenhouse you have, the atmosphere shouldn't be allowed to go stale. A small fan is the ideal solution for a small or medium sized greenhouse.








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2012年1月11日 星期三

Types of Orchids - It is About Orchid Plants, Not the Flowers


When discussing orchids the most basic distinction to be made is about the types of orchids. Most amateur orchid growers often say orchid types but they are actually referring to the orchid species.

Types of orchids is a reference to the most basic orchids' categorization and it does not refer to the many thousands different flowers. A different orchid flower is produced by a different orchid specie.

The categorization of orchid plants begins with distinguishing between the different types of orchid plants. Many beginner orchids lovers will be very surprised to find out that there are only two basic types of orchids; terrestrial and epiphytes, or aerial.

Occasionally we can run into one of the few exceptions to the rule and find an orchid which is both.

The terrestrial type of orchids grows similarly to any other garden plant by spreading its roots underground. Now, we should specify though that the 'ground' in most cases is not really ground, or at least not what we use in our gardens as plants soil.

This type of orchids are called terrestrial because they grow at 'ground level' but the composition of the soil they like to grow in is very different from what we usually call soil.

In their natural environment terrestrial orchids choose to grow at ground level in a tropical forest environment in a 'soil' which contains a very low percentage of minerals and mostly organic matters as dead wood, barks, decomposing leaves, insects, animals and a set of very active fungi.

So, basically the terrestrial type of orchids grows in natural occurring tropical forest compost... not in the ground. Keep that in mind when preparing the medium for this type of orchids.

As an example, the most popular of the terrestrial orchids' type are the several Cymbidiums species. Among them you can find all typical differences usually found among orchid plants. Some grow in low lights and need less water. Others need more light and more water.

In general though, the terrestrial orchids' type thrives in shadier settings compared to the aerial orchids' type.

The second of the two types of orchids, the aerial, are epiphytes. Scientifically speaking the term epiphytes is not specific of orchids. It is a general botanical term used to signify that the plant roots grow above ground.

Epiphytes orchids were originally though to be a sort of tree parasites which would take the necessary nutrients from the trees they like to grow on. It turns out though that they are actually very nice to the trees and don't take any of the tree nutrients.

Their roots slightly cling to the tree bark, just enough to falling or flying away in the wind. The aerial orchid plant roots store water either by absorbing humidity directly from the air or sucking up rain water.

Rain water also provides this type of orchids the nutrients by carrying minerals and organic material as it runs down the tree bark. Small insects, dirt and other debris get stuck between the roots and as they decompose they are absorbed and feed the plant.

That is exactly why when fertilizing our orchids we mix the minerals with the water and let the water run through medium and roots. We are basically trying to reproduce the way this type of orchids sustain themselves in their natural habitat.

As you become more experienced, just by paying attention to the color of the root you will be able to know when it is time to water your orchids. A healthy root system will be green when storing water, it will gradually become a lighter green as it dries up and eventually turn white, or almost white, when dry and in need of more water.

When you start caring for orchids though I suggest you use a moist meter to decide when it is time to water your plants. Moist meters are fairly inexpensive and they give you accurate readings on the amount of humidity within the orchid's medium.

That is my suggestion because different species in different locations will retain humidity differently, therefore needing watering at slightly different intervals.

As a rule of thumb the two types of orchids differ from each other by the amount of light they need. The terrestrial kind needs less light than the aerial type of orchids and the amount of light they receive determines how quickly the root system will dry up.

With all these variables, as a beginner, it is much safer to use a moist meter, just until you get to know your orchids better.




Dalia Cruz learned about orchids from her mother. Collectively they have over fifty years of orchid growing experience. For more great information on orchids types visit http://www.OrchidsGrowingBlog.com.





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2011年12月13日 星期二

Are You Caring For Orchids Properly Or Are You Doomed for Failure?


How many times have I heard "don't grow orchids they are so hard to keep alive". I've lost count! To me it's the lack of knowledge that breeds negativity and causes people to avoid something that they may well be very good at doing.

This is a shame because these wonderful flowers bring much joy to people who are caring for their orchids properly.

I want to go on and show you that perhaps caring for orchids isn't as mysterious and difficult as some people would have you think. In fact I'm more than confident that if you stick to a simple set of rules, that there is no reason why you can't become the next orchid expert.

So caring for orchids lets look at the basics that you need to be successful.

1. Light, different orchids require different types of light. Some prefer a shaded light whilst others are happy in a brighter light. In almost all cases however direct sunlight is not a good idea for their rather delicate nature.

2. Water, it's important not to over water when caring for orchids. Only water when the soil has dried. This is a general rule as some varieties will need more water than others, so it's essential that you understand the individual needs of each variety that you grow.

3. Temperature, orchids can stand quite diverse temperatures and again it is important to get to grips with what each variety thrives best on. As a general rule sixty degrees Fahrenheit at night

and up to around seventy in the day would be a fair temperature range to aim for.

4. Humidity, as a basic guide in dry conditions humidity is low and in cooler areas the humidity would be higher. We are looking to achieve something like sixty to eighty percent humidity. A simple way to achieve this is using a small flat container filled with a small amount of water and stones. You might like to get a humidity meter to measure how successful your efforts are.

So those are the basic needs of caring for orchids. I thoroughly recommend that you check out whats suitable for specific varieties though as they do have different requirements. I wish you well and much success in caring for orchids.




Lynne Ivatt is an orchid enthusiast learn the rest of her essential secrets to becoming an orchid growing expert at caring for orchids [http://www.completeorchidcare.com/basics-of-orchid-care.html] visit [http://www.completeorchidcare.com]





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