顯示具有 Orchid 標籤的文章。 顯示所有文章
顯示具有 Orchid 標籤的文章。 顯示所有文章

2012年9月11日 星期二

Orchid Care - The Basics


The orchid has the same needs as any plant, namely water, food, a certain amount of warmth and light. Not all orchids need the same type of care but all have these basic requirements. Most orchids sold for the home grower are no more demanding than any other house plant as long as you follow some simple rules.

Growing Medium

Orchids cannot be grown in regular compost or soil as they have very different roots systems to other house plants. Unlike regular plant compost orchid growing media is not nutrient rich. The main function of the growing medium for orchids is to act as an anchor for the plant. The 2 most important factors to consider when choosing your medium are to ensure that it provides excellent drainage and permits air to circulate around the roots.

There are several types of growing medium to choose from suck as bark, charcoal, coconut fiber, cork, sphagnum moss and rock wool. Many experienced growers usually like to come up with their own particular mix. Special blended media can be purchased to suite your particular species from many garden centers and stores.

Temperature

It is a commonly thought that orchids require constant high temperatures; this is just not the case some day to day variation is of some benefit to the orchid plant. Most orchids need some difference between the day and night time temperatures.

The temperature requirements of orchids vary from species to species but you should try to provide the temperature that your particular orchid plant would have in its natural habitat.

Orchids are classified as being cool, intermediate or warm orchids and an indication of the day time temperature requirements are detailed below;

Cool Orchids 55 - 70 F (13 - 21C)

Intermediate orchids 65 - 75 F (18 - 24C)

Warm Orchids 70 - 85 F (21 - 30C)

Never place your orchid directly in from of a fire or another heat source, Exposure to temperatures below 41F (5C) or above 90F (32C) for prolonged periods can be harmful or even fatal to your plant.

Humidity

Orchids generally need a higher humidity level than the average house plant. As a good rule of thumb you should try to maintain a relative humidity level of 50%to 85% around your orchid.

Very few homes would have this level of humidity naturally and indeed the majority of us would not be able to tolerate it either. So what we need to do is create a micro-climate around our orchid plants. The best way of achieving a good humidity level around our orchid plants is by placing them on a humidity tray.

A humidity tray can be made quite simply. Obtain a tray or shallow pot that is at least 3" deep and fill it with 1 to 2" of gravel or small pebbles. Place a saucer on top of the pebbles on which to place your potted orchid. Add water to the tray so that the pebbles are half submerged in water; NEVER let the water rise up to the bottom of the orchid pot itself. As the water in the tray evaporates it will provide a nice humid environment around your plants.

In dryer periods, or if you have a centrally heated home you can "top up" the humidity level by occasional misting of your plants. Spray the leaves and the roots trying to avoid the flowers themselves. But be sure to do this early in the day as your orchid leaves should never be left "wet" overnight.

I would strongly suggest that you use a humidity meter to best gauge the humidity levels. Indeed inexpensive combined digital thermometer and humidity meters are readily available.

Watering

As a good rule your orchid plant will need to be watered every 5 - 12 days depending upon seasonal conditions. It is best to water your orchids in the morning as this is when they would naturally receive moisture in their natural environment from the early morning mists. You should also water your plants from above and never fill the tray up with water. Your plant should NEVER be allowed to stand in water as the roots will soon rot if they become saturated and water logged. One of the most common causes of orchid plants dying is from being over-watered. The growing medium should feel moist but never wet.

Air

Your orchid plant should be placed in an area where it receives good air circulation but one that is also free from cold droughts. So it should not be placed in front of or close to an external door opening.

Light

Light is a basic requirement for your orchids growth. The majority of orchids grow best in indirect sunlight that copies the shaded lighting conditions they would receive in their natural habitat. Full midday sun is usually too strong for the average orchid plant which will result in leaf burn.

Feeding

Orchids naturally receive nourishment from decaying material that gathers around their roots. The nutrients provided are generally fairly week. So as a general rule you should only feed your orchid every 3 or 4 watering. This feeding can stop or be reduced in periods of non-growth. There are several propriety orchid feeds that are available from your garden center or store. And commonly different types are available for use when your orchid is in bloom.




Jonathan Lawes is an orchid expert. For more information on caring for orchids,visit http://www.orchidgardenanswers.com.





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年9月10日 星期一

A Closer Look At The Needs Of A Vanda Orchid


It is recommended that the Vanda orchid only be repotted every three years. The reason for this is because the plant dislikes disturbances, and may react by not flowering. It is normal for the aerial roots of Vanda orchids to extend outside their potting environment. Nature should be allowed to take its course, as their root systems tend to be quite expansive. Most Vanda orchids love a coarse potting medium such as fir bark. If, however, the potting medium has decayed and no longer drains properly or has developed green or snow mould, action should be taken instantly. As these conditions change the chemical environment of your orchid, it may be damaged or grow diseased if no intervention is undertaken. Alternative potting media can be lava rock, hardwood charcoal, broken pottery pieces, which tend to be more durable.

During its full growth phase, a Vanda orchid will need plenty of nutrition. This occurs between June and September. Since its preferred growing medium is bark, you will need to provide fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content, to accommodate for the portion that will be consumed by this. A regular strength fertilizer can be applied monthly, but your orchids may benefit from a split dose that is less concentrated, but given more frequently. From September to October, the plants will benefit from orchid food with a high potassium content. From November to June, less fertilizer is needed and once a month may be sufficient.

The plants will also require large quantities of water during active growth. In the northern hemisphere, this period extends from June to September. Take care to avoid over watering them, though. Epiphytes and Lithophytes are particularly vulnerable to this, as their roots are partially exposed and adapted to drying out periodically. If you water daily, do so early in the day, to allow roots to dry out by nightfall.

Vanda orchids are tropical plants and therefore a humidity level of about 80 percent is recommended for their environment. Within a greenhouse, it might be relatively simple to maintain this standard, but for orchids growing within your home, this may seem more difficult. Some orchid owners may make the mistake of over watering the orchid to compensate for an arid environment, but this could lead to the roots being damaged permanently. One solution would be to incorporate a humidifier. Another solution would be to place your Vanda orchid near a tray filled with a mixture of water and sand or pebbles. As the water evaporates from the tray, it can be topped up. You could acquire a humidity meter to monitor the levels yourself on a regular basis.

Other general needs include good air circulation and water drainage. Inspect your Vanda orchid regularly for snails, slugs or other types of insects.




Alan Stables is a keen gardener, and one of his specialities is caring for orchids. Given optimum environment conditions depending on the various orchid types, the correct orchid food, and the right amount of sunlight and water, you too will be able to grow beautiful orchids in no time.





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年7月17日 星期二

Cuba Nature Travel - Soroa Orchid Garden and Waterfall


Cuba is renowned for its nature; the green of its landscapes, and its dense, unspoiled spots, but there is a place of particular note for its intense greenery and exotic spectrum: the Sierra del Rosario. This mountain massif stretches 25000 hectares half way between the western Cuba province of Pinar del Rio and Havana. It's one of the Biosphere reserves in Cuba declared and protected by UNESCO. Along with the Sierra de los Organos (where Vinales is located), it's considered to be the most ancient part of the Island as well as the most historically uninhabited because of its rugged nature and harsh climate (hot under the sun and relatively cold in the shade, too humid and rainy throughout the year). Two places very popular among nature-loving tourists are located in the Sierra del Rosario: Las Terrazas Eco-Tourism Community and Soroa. Soroa is best known for its Orchid Garden and famous Waterfall. Opposed to Las Terrazas, Soroa has the most ancient forests in Western Cuba and its nature is even denser and lusher than Las Terrazas'. Trees are varied in the area, including mahoganies, cedar, carob, and ferns among others, and could easily be 50 meters tall and more than 150 years old.

Like Las Terrazas, Soroa's mountains were colonized by the French coffee planters, but in a lower degree due to the harsh conditions. The place was named after two brothers who bought the Cafetal La Merced in early 19th century and then bought other coffee plantations in the surrounding areas; little by little the small town grew and took on the name of Soroa brothers'.

However, what made the place so famous was its waterfall of around 50 m in the Manantiales River and a 1950s visit that the American writer Ernest Hemingway made to the Orchid Garden belonging to the Cuban naturalist and lawyer Tomas Felipe Camacho. The Garden features a collection of 250 orchids endemic of the Island, and over 700 from around the world, along with numerous species of exotic plants that thrive here thanks to the local climate. Today, there is also an orchid research center belonging to the University of Pinar del Rio. To access the place, you should first pay; bilingual guiding services are always provided.

To access the Salton, as the waterfall is best known, you have to go down a path of more than 400 meters (it's necessary to pay at the entrance there). It's recommended to take drinking water since there is no gastronomic service at the base of the waterfall. If you are lucky, you'll run into a few locals selling tropical fruit. Once there you can soak into those fantastic crystalline waters of the waterfall and be delighted by nature and tranquility. Although paved, with steps and handrails, the path is steep and hard for older people or others with physical disabilities or chronic diseases. As the weather is similar to the one in Las Terrazas, it is advisable to visit the area in the morning to avoid the heavy rains that usually occur in the afternoon. At the entrance there is an economic restaurant and some souvenir stores.

Ideal lodging in the area is the 3-Star Villa Soroa hotel, some comfortable cabins distributed within the forest surrounding a pool. There are also several local private houses you can stay in where dinner and breakfast are offered as well. Along the road you will always find locals selling fruit and ornamental plants, including orchid plants. Although exotic and very cheap, be warned that Cuban customs does not allow the exportation of any vegetable species in regular flights.




This guide to visiting Soroa, Cuba was written by a Cuba travel expert from Cuba For Less, a specialist in fully customizable Cuba vacations.





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年7月9日 星期一

A Closer Look At The Needs Of A Vanda Orchid


It is recommended that the Vanda orchid only be repotted every three years. The reason for this is because the plant dislikes disturbances, and may react by not flowering. It is normal for the aerial roots of Vanda orchids to extend outside their potting environment. Nature should be allowed to take its course, as their root systems tend to be quite expansive. Most Vanda orchids love a coarse potting medium such as fir bark. If, however, the potting medium has decayed and no longer drains properly or has developed green or snow mould, action should be taken instantly. As these conditions change the chemical environment of your orchid, it may be damaged or grow diseased if no intervention is undertaken. Alternative potting media can be lava rock, hardwood charcoal, broken pottery pieces, which tend to be more durable.

During its full growth phase, a Vanda orchid will need plenty of nutrition. This occurs between June and September. Since its preferred growing medium is bark, you will need to provide fertilizer with a higher nitrogen content, to accommodate for the portion that will be consumed by this. A regular strength fertilizer can be applied monthly, but your orchids may benefit from a split dose that is less concentrated, but given more frequently. From September to October, the plants will benefit from orchid food with a high potassium content. From November to June, less fertilizer is needed and once a month may be sufficient.

The plants will also require large quantities of water during active growth. In the northern hemisphere, this period extends from June to September. Take care to avoid over watering them, though. Epiphytes and Lithophytes are particularly vulnerable to this, as their roots are partially exposed and adapted to drying out periodically. If you water daily, do so early in the day, to allow roots to dry out by nightfall.

Vanda orchids are tropical plants and therefore a humidity level of about 80 percent is recommended for their environment. Within a greenhouse, it might be relatively simple to maintain this standard, but for orchids growing within your home, this may seem more difficult. Some orchid owners may make the mistake of over watering the orchid to compensate for an arid environment, but this could lead to the roots being damaged permanently. One solution would be to incorporate a humidifier. Another solution would be to place your Vanda orchid near a tray filled with a mixture of water and sand or pebbles. As the water evaporates from the tray, it can be topped up. You could acquire a humidity meter to monitor the levels yourself on a regular basis.

Other general needs include good air circulation and water drainage. Inspect your Vanda orchid regularly for snails, slugs or other types of insects.




Alan Stables is a keen gardener, and one of his specialities is caring for orchids. Given optimum environment conditions depending on the various orchid types, the correct orchid food, and the right amount of sunlight and water, you too will be able to grow beautiful orchids in no time.





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年6月22日 星期五

Brassia Orchid Types


Brassia orchid types occur naturally in Central and South America and in the West Indies. Of the 25 species in this genus only a few are cultivated.

Brassia orchids have long narrow petals and sepals which make them look like spiders and are often commonly called spider orchids because of their appearance. The foliage grows to a height of about twelve inches and the flower spike will grow above that. Brassia flowers are for the most part brown and light green in color, and they usually have green oval pseudo bulbs.

The flower spikes of Brassia orchid types come up from the leading pseudo bulb in the spring and will have as many as twelve flowers on a spike that are all above the foliage. The Brassia orchid begins flowering in early summer and blooms for about five weeks.

Brassia orchids are considered a cool growing plant. Their survivable temperature ranges from a cool 55 degrees F on a winter night to a warm 86 degrees on a summer day. Grow adult plants in pots four to six inches in size and use bark or a bark based medium to pot them with. Brassia require watering all year round, but limit water during winter when the plant is resting. In the summer foliage needs to be sprayed, but keep buds and flowers dry. They grow best when humidity is kept between 50% and 70%. A humidity tray put underneath them works well. Brassia require bright light but not during mid day as this will burn them. If growing inside under artificial light they will need approximately 2500 foot candles of light as measured with a light meter.

Brassia orchid types are sympodial orchids and when they become large enough they can be divided and or propagated. Propagation is done from the back pseudo bulbs. You can propagate them by dividing the back pseudo bulb from the rest of the plant and replanting them in their own small pot and placing them in a propagator or in a warm and light spot. Growth will usually appear in a few weeks. Re-potting should only be done every two to three years.

Brassia Rex is a hybrid which was started in Hawaii and is a heat tolerant plant. This makes it suitable for growing in the warmer parts of the United States as well as warm climates in other countries.

Brassia verrucosa is a species from Honduras that has become a popular plant for indoor homes and green houses. It is cool growing and has wonderfully fragrant flowers that bloom in early summer.




Ellen Reader - avid orchid collector, grower, and writer. I love orchids.

Interested in finding out more about Orchid Types? At my Orchid Center Online website you can find additional orchid information.





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年6月19日 星期二

5 Tips For Getting Your Orchid Lights Just Right


Light is absolutely essential to all orchid species. You can have all of your orchids other needs met, including water, humidity, temperature, and fertilizer, but if you don't get this one critical element right you will not see your orchid bloom the way you had hoped.

Orchids are found in tropical, sub-tropical, mountain, lowland, hot and cool climates of the world. Orchids that live in each of these locales have adapted to the light availability of these places. Light is the essence of life for these plants. It is what spurns them to grow and ultimately bloom. However, not all orchids are created equal and with over 100,000 to choose from it would be impossible to state a general light requirement formula that would cover the needs of all of those orchids.

As a rule of thumb orchids need abundant light. The important element though is the intensity of the light. That said there are five very important tips that can help get you on the right path for meeting your orchids lighting needs. Lets take a closer look:

Step 1. Research. I cannot understate the importance of doing research on your specific orchids light needs before purchasing. Why is this so important? You want to set yourself up for success. You need to know that you can emulate the environment at your home, office, or greenhouse that will cause your orchid to thrive. Because so many orchids don't bloom that often, you want to have the right knowledge before investing the time, effort, and money. Find out if your orchid is a low, medium, or high light plant.

Step 2. Natural, Artificial, or Both? Now that you've selected which orchid will work for you, it is time to decide how you will light it. Natural light is of course the best option. If, for example, you have decided on a Phalaenopsis orchid, then they require minimal light. I recommend placing them in an east-facing window that is bright, but not powerful. You could also supplement or replace the natural light with artificial light. Consider using fluorescent lights placed about a foot above the Phalaenopsis with exposures of 12-15 hours per day following the natural length of the day.

If you've chosen a medium to high light orchid like the Cattleya, then consider placing your orchid outdoors during the warmer months. I prefer a south-east facing aspect so they get good sun with stronger intensity. You will want to make sure that you have dappled sunlight, which leads us to the next step.

Step 3. Shade. Even the most sun loving orchids can't sit in the blaring sunlight all day without some moderation. Because so many orchids grow on or around trees, the light they do receive, regardless of intensity, is regulated. For this reason, it is very important to have some form of shade or light dappling. If you are growing your orchids outdoors consider placing them near trees and monitor the shadow patterns for a day and adjust as needed. You can also set up a hanging cloth to mimic the tree if you don't have a yard.

Step 4. Leaf Quality. A sure fire way to tell if your orchid is receiving too much or too little light is to check the coloring and texture of its leaves. If the leaves are turning yellow, brown or beginning to wilt, then they are under watered or over exposed to sunlight.

Step 5. Light Meters. These are certainly not in everyone's budget, nor recommended for the beginner, but if you are serious about orchid growing then you should consider picking up a light meter sometime. Orchid light is measured in foot-candles (fc) and you can use a light meter to gage the amount of light your orchid is currently receiving and modify as necessary.

Getting the light just right for your orchid might take a bit of trial and error at first, but once you figure out what works best for your specific plant then it can be a breeze to care for. Just remember to do your research! Happy Gardening!




Mark Alber is the owner of www.OrchidInformationHeadquarters.com [http://www.OrchidInformationHeadquarters.com].

You can find more helpful resources about orchid lights [http://www.orchidinformationheadquarters.com/orchid-lights/] at his website.





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年2月9日 星期四

How to Purchase the Right Orchid


You want your orchid to grow well after you purchase it, right? Before you purchase your plant you first need to look at where it will be spending its time. What is it going to like staying in a particular room? And which orchid variety will do best in that area.

In a home there are only a certain number of changes that can be made for an orchid plant, or any plant for that matter. They are:

Moving your orchid closer or further from the window

Watering a home orchid more or less frequently

Varying the room temperature

Changing the humidity

Moving closer or further from other plants

Repotting when needed

Let's take a look at how to survey your home for the best orchid that will grow well.

Use a light meter to show or estimate how much light you have in your home. Also, try it at different times of the day.

Do you have pets? Do they tend to get into the plants. If so, your orchid may not do well.

Survey your home, where would you put your orchid? Does your home have mostly shade or full sun? Would you be ok with putting your orchid in a bathroom that gets great humidity or in front of a living room window?

How good are you at watering? Do you forget? What about giving fertilizer to your plant?

Now is the time to get the best home orchid that will fit your home environment.

You want plenty of pretty flowers and have bright light, dendrobium is the plant

If you have indirect bright light but want plenty of flowers, try a phalaenopsis orchid

A paph is great when there is little light and you want a compact plant

The room is fairly bright light but it does get a bit cold in your house, get an odonoglossum.

If you live in south florida and get plenty of sun as well as humidity, then a vanda orchid is the one for you. A brassia also does well in these conditions or in a greenhouse

There is medium light, a miltonia will suit this situation

on oncidium is best suited for fairly bright areas.

These tips will get you the best home orchid for your house. Orchids are surprisingly very easy to care for and are spectacular when in bloom. In fact, in some of the orchid species the blooms will last up to 4 months.




Get the Guide to Growing Great Orchids, Mastering Orchids, a 70 page guide for half price ($9.95) Just subscribe to our monthly free orchid newsletter, Orchidaceae. http://www.orchids-plus-more.com/orchid-newsletter.html





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年2月1日 星期三

The Paphiopedilum Orchid


The Paphiopedilum orchid, also called paphs by horticulturist and is commonly referred as The Lady's Slipper or just as slipper orchids. At present it includes about 80 accepted species with some of them are considered as natural hybrids. Paphiopedilum is native to India, China, South East Asia and the Pacific Islands.

Slipper orchids naturally grow among humus layers as terrestrials that grow on land of the forest floor. Only some of this species grow as epiphytes (live at trees) and some as lithophytes (live in or on rocks). These orchids have a lateral growth pattern and do not possess pseudobulbs. Instead they grow strong shoots which are new plant growth with several leaves and buds at or near the surface of the soil

The shape of the leaves could be short rounded or long and narrow with a typical pattern of mottling. When mature shoots die, new shoots will come out. Every newer fully grown shoot will only blooms once that produces a cluster of flowers between the fleshy and succulent leaves. The roots are also thick, fleshy and could be quite long. A potted slipper orchid, for instance, could form a tight join of roots which when untangled, can be up to 1 meter long

Paphiopedilums are highly collectible orchids and admired by most orchid fanciers and hobbyist. The Lady's Slipper name arises from the unusual shape of the pouch-like lips (= labellum) of the orchid flower that resembles a lady's slipper. The pouch is meant to trap nectar seeking insects, and as an attempt to leave the pouch the insect will bring along some amount of pollinia.

When caring for Paphiopedilum you should consider some important issues when you aim to get the utmost of this amazing flower orchid.

In their natural habitat, Paphiopedilums need very little light, which make them very suitable as house plants. You just need moderate lighting to keep your Paphiopedilum healthy and blooming. Placing them at an east facing window or a shaded south facing window will be most appropriate. Avoid west facing windows since they can be very hot in late spring to early fall. Be aware that too much light may burn your Paphiopedilum

There are two major groups of Paphiopedilums. The first one is the plain green leaf type or also known as the Bulldog type which is an intermediate grower. This type requires nighttime temperatures between 50o and 60oF or 10o and 16oC. Day time temperature should be below 80oF or 27oC. To produce flowers it is absolutely important to keep the night temperature below 60oF or 16oC for about a few weeks long in late fall and winter.

The second is the mottled leaf type, also known as the Maudiae type which is a warm grower. They require nighttime temperatures between 60o to 65oF or 16o - 18oC and day time between 70o - 85oF or 22o - 30oC. This Maudiae type could bloom in normal household environments.

Avoid drying out of this orchid between two watering. Depending on the set temperature, the frequency of watering should be about one or two times in a week. In summer it needs more frequent watering of every 4 to 5 days. Again, use the simple rule: more heat, more water and less heat less water.

Lady slippers like to stay in the humid side as long as it is not too wet. You can water the orchid in the morning, so that your plant will be dry by the end of the day. These slipper orchids prefer a humidity of 50% - 60%, hence putting them in a kitchen or bathroom will provide them with sufficient humidity. If you like to put it in other rooms or places, you can make use of a humidity tray

You may use fertilizers as well. Do it on a regular basis every other week using Norman's Optimal Orchid Nutrients. Reduce its strength to a half teaspoon for every gallon of water. Prior to applying the diluted fertilizer, it is best if you pre-water the plants especially if the potting media is dry.

You need to repot Paphiopedilums once a year using fine orchid barks to promote proper and healthy growth. The ideal time of repotting is immediately after blooming. Avoid using too large pots, since they prefer small pots and it should be as small as possible.




Uno Birawan is a writer and wrote a lot on how to care for orchids. You also can obtain more information about Orchid Pruning here or you can visit his site www.theorchidpot.com to share more valuable information on caring orchids





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年1月11日 星期三

Types of Orchids - It is About Orchid Plants, Not the Flowers


When discussing orchids the most basic distinction to be made is about the types of orchids. Most amateur orchid growers often say orchid types but they are actually referring to the orchid species.

Types of orchids is a reference to the most basic orchids' categorization and it does not refer to the many thousands different flowers. A different orchid flower is produced by a different orchid specie.

The categorization of orchid plants begins with distinguishing between the different types of orchid plants. Many beginner orchids lovers will be very surprised to find out that there are only two basic types of orchids; terrestrial and epiphytes, or aerial.

Occasionally we can run into one of the few exceptions to the rule and find an orchid which is both.

The terrestrial type of orchids grows similarly to any other garden plant by spreading its roots underground. Now, we should specify though that the 'ground' in most cases is not really ground, or at least not what we use in our gardens as plants soil.

This type of orchids are called terrestrial because they grow at 'ground level' but the composition of the soil they like to grow in is very different from what we usually call soil.

In their natural environment terrestrial orchids choose to grow at ground level in a tropical forest environment in a 'soil' which contains a very low percentage of minerals and mostly organic matters as dead wood, barks, decomposing leaves, insects, animals and a set of very active fungi.

So, basically the terrestrial type of orchids grows in natural occurring tropical forest compost... not in the ground. Keep that in mind when preparing the medium for this type of orchids.

As an example, the most popular of the terrestrial orchids' type are the several Cymbidiums species. Among them you can find all typical differences usually found among orchid plants. Some grow in low lights and need less water. Others need more light and more water.

In general though, the terrestrial orchids' type thrives in shadier settings compared to the aerial orchids' type.

The second of the two types of orchids, the aerial, are epiphytes. Scientifically speaking the term epiphytes is not specific of orchids. It is a general botanical term used to signify that the plant roots grow above ground.

Epiphytes orchids were originally though to be a sort of tree parasites which would take the necessary nutrients from the trees they like to grow on. It turns out though that they are actually very nice to the trees and don't take any of the tree nutrients.

Their roots slightly cling to the tree bark, just enough to falling or flying away in the wind. The aerial orchid plant roots store water either by absorbing humidity directly from the air or sucking up rain water.

Rain water also provides this type of orchids the nutrients by carrying minerals and organic material as it runs down the tree bark. Small insects, dirt and other debris get stuck between the roots and as they decompose they are absorbed and feed the plant.

That is exactly why when fertilizing our orchids we mix the minerals with the water and let the water run through medium and roots. We are basically trying to reproduce the way this type of orchids sustain themselves in their natural habitat.

As you become more experienced, just by paying attention to the color of the root you will be able to know when it is time to water your orchids. A healthy root system will be green when storing water, it will gradually become a lighter green as it dries up and eventually turn white, or almost white, when dry and in need of more water.

When you start caring for orchids though I suggest you use a moist meter to decide when it is time to water your plants. Moist meters are fairly inexpensive and they give you accurate readings on the amount of humidity within the orchid's medium.

That is my suggestion because different species in different locations will retain humidity differently, therefore needing watering at slightly different intervals.

As a rule of thumb the two types of orchids differ from each other by the amount of light they need. The terrestrial kind needs less light than the aerial type of orchids and the amount of light they receive determines how quickly the root system will dry up.

With all these variables, as a beginner, it is much safer to use a moist meter, just until you get to know your orchids better.




Dalia Cruz learned about orchids from her mother. Collectively they have over fifty years of orchid growing experience. For more great information on orchids types visit http://www.OrchidsGrowingBlog.com.





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2011年12月8日 星期四

Orchid Care - The Basics


The orchid has the same needs as any plant, namely water, food, a certain amount of warmth and light. Not all orchids need the same type of care but all have these basic requirements. Most orchids sold for the home grower are no more demanding than any other house plant as long as you follow some simple rules.

Growing Medium

Orchids cannot be grown in regular compost or soil as they have very different roots systems to other house plants. Unlike regular plant compost orchid growing media is not nutrient rich. The main function of the growing medium for orchids is to act as an anchor for the plant. The 2 most important factors to consider when choosing your medium are to ensure that it provides excellent drainage and permits air to circulate around the roots.

There are several types of growing medium to choose from suck as bark, charcoal, coconut fiber, cork, sphagnum moss and rock wool. Many experienced growers usually like to come up with their own particular mix. Special blended media can be purchased to suite your particular species from many garden centers and stores.

Temperature

It is a commonly thought that orchids require constant high temperatures; this is just not the case some day to day variation is of some benefit to the orchid plant. Most orchids need some difference between the day and night time temperatures.

The temperature requirements of orchids vary from species to species but you should try to provide the temperature that your particular orchid plant would have in its natural habitat.

Orchids are classified as being cool, intermediate or warm orchids and an indication of the day time temperature requirements are detailed below;

Cool Orchids 55 - 70 F (13 - 21C)

Intermediate orchids 65 - 75 F (18 - 24C)

Warm Orchids 70 - 85 F (21 - 30C)

Never place your orchid directly in from of a fire or another heat source, Exposure to temperatures below 41F (5C) or above 90F (32C) for prolonged periods can be harmful or even fatal to your plant.

Humidity

Orchids generally need a higher humidity level than the average house plant. As a good rule of thumb you should try to maintain a relative humidity level of 50%to 85% around your orchid.

Very few homes would have this level of humidity naturally and indeed the majority of us would not be able to tolerate it either. So what we need to do is create a micro-climate around our orchid plants. The best way of achieving a good humidity level around our orchid plants is by placing them on a humidity tray.

A humidity tray can be made quite simply. Obtain a tray or shallow pot that is at least 3" deep and fill it with 1 to 2" of gravel or small pebbles. Place a saucer on top of the pebbles on which to place your potted orchid. Add water to the tray so that the pebbles are half submerged in water; NEVER let the water rise up to the bottom of the orchid pot itself. As the water in the tray evaporates it will provide a nice humid environment around your plants.

In dryer periods, or if you have a centrally heated home you can "top up" the humidity level by occasional misting of your plants. Spray the leaves and the roots trying to avoid the flowers themselves. But be sure to do this early in the day as your orchid leaves should never be left "wet" overnight.

I would strongly suggest that you use a humidity meter to best gauge the humidity levels. Indeed inexpensive combined digital thermometer and humidity meters are readily available.

Watering

As a good rule your orchid plant will need to be watered every 5 - 12 days depending upon seasonal conditions. It is best to water your orchids in the morning as this is when they would naturally receive moisture in their natural environment from the early morning mists. You should also water your plants from above and never fill the tray up with water. Your plant should NEVER be allowed to stand in water as the roots will soon rot if they become saturated and water logged. One of the most common causes of orchid plants dying is from being over-watered. The growing medium should feel moist but never wet.

Air

Your orchid plant should be placed in an area where it receives good air circulation but one that is also free from cold droughts. So it should not be placed in front of or close to an external door opening.

Light

Light is a basic requirement for your orchids growth. The majority of orchids grow best in indirect sunlight that copies the shaded lighting conditions they would receive in their natural habitat. Full midday sun is usually too strong for the average orchid plant which will result in leaf burn.

Feeding

Orchids naturally receive nourishment from decaying material that gathers around their roots. The nutrients provided are generally fairly week. So as a general rule you should only feed your orchid every 3 or 4 watering. This feeding can stop or be reduced in periods of non-growth. There are several propriety orchid feeds that are available from your garden center or store. And commonly different types are available for use when your orchid is in bloom.




Jonathan Lawes is an orchid expert. For more information on caring for orchids,visit http://www.orchidgardenanswers.com.





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.