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2012年9月12日 星期三

Paint Problems - DIY Painting Tips


All painters know that painting in wet conditions or on a damp surface is asking for trouble. Your freshly-painted finish will quickly fall victim to ugly peeling and bubbling.

But what's the answer if peeling happens on a long-established painted surface? Most people would simply scrape and repaint if it only happens to a small area. But what if this is a widespread problem with paint peeling throughout a property? Then you have a mystery to solve - and a solution to come up with.

Development of damp

Paint will tend to peel and crack first around areas such as doors and windows, fans and heaters - usually areas where temperature changes frequently. A properly applied quality paint will be able to handle this, but a cheaper, improperly applied paint will be stressed by repeated heating and cooling and changes in moisture levels and it gradually loses adhesion.

If the peeling is in unexpected areas, look first for water damage or mould. Any leaks will quickly be evident, but also use a moisture meter to check for less obvious damp patches. Consider and check for less obvious sources of damp, such as standing water under the house, a humidity problem in the house (are kitchens, bathrooms and laundries properly vented?) or high condensation levels.

Painting over old wallpaper

This can usually be spotted straight away, with the huge clue being the paper peeling off with the paint!

Poor priming

If the painted surface was one that needed primer and no primer was used originally, then adding more layers of paint can ultimately result in peeling. This type of failure can take years, even decades, to manifest. The first few new coats of paint will not necessarily cause a problem - but as the weight of the painted surface builds up over time peeling can start.

Too much paint

Careless application of too many layers of paint can cause problems at a later date, with the ultimate weight of the coating causing it to peel away.

Poor quality paint

Using cheap paint, or thinning paint to make it go further is a cheapskate solution that often comes back to bite.

Poorly cleaned surfaces

Another way that some people cut corners to get the job done faster is not to clean the surface properly. If this happens with the first coat, then as with the primer problems, it may not manifest for some time. Additional coats of paint might also disguise the problem. Ultimately, however, the poor preparation will reveal itself.

Poorly applied texturing

If a spray texture has been badly applied and damp gets behind the paint, then over time the texture can re-emulsify and start to fall away from the walls - taking the paint with it.

Infestation

If all of the above have been ruled out then you have to consider termites or some other kind of infestation and in that case peeling paint is only the start of your problems. Get a pest inspector to check out the property

Solutions

Doing the job properly in the first place is the best solution - but years down the line that smug answer is particularly unhelpful.

If the peeling is restricted to specific areas and you have established that the problem is also restricted to that area, then you may be able to scrape back and repaint. Or you may be able to remediate by cutting out an affected surface - such as a patch of damp on a wooden door - filling and then repainting.

However, sadly if it's a widespread problem, the most common solution is to steam or scrape back to the original surface and start again. There is one workaround to this - a product called 'Bind Back', which can be applied to create a surface that can be repainted.




Natural landscape designer, gardener and DIY-er. Enjoys writing about anything garden and landscaping related. For the best landscape and building supplies visit: BC Sands - firewood for sale





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年9月6日 星期四

Ways to Detect Mold Problems


Mold and mildew problems occur rarely but you should be checked regularly since they can lead to possible health problems. Here are some simple steps for you to spot mold and mildew problems.

Inspect for odors. Musty / moldy be checked regularly odors in the vicinity of a leak is a sure sign of mold. Naturally, you're not supposed to be sniffing around for mold, or touching mold if you have or if there's a chance you may have a compromised immune system. Sniffing and such is a definite no-no if you or your family has a history of allergy, asthma, or any other conditions that would put you at risk of an adverse reaction resulting from any form of mold exposure.

Inspect for odors near your AC ducts. Turn your AC off for a while and then do your inspection. The longer the AC is off, the better. Next turn your AC back on and leave your thermostat alone for a while, turning it on and off to more than one cycle in several minutes can damage your compressor. Immediately after, stand directly under the path of air flowing from a duct. You will surely smell the musty mold odors blowing in your face if your AC unit or your homes ductwork is contaminated with mold. Again, sniffing and such is a definite no-no if there's a chance you may have a compromised immune system.

Check for mold on AC registers and coils. There's a high chance of mold problems in AC registers in humid places and coils in general. AC coils are made to form condensation when in the cooling mode after AC use; this feature aids the system to remove humidity from your air. Metal AC register grills become cold as air exiting your duct courses through them. The bottom sides of AC coils sometimes develop large amounts of velvety grey cladosporium mold or clear jelly like bacteria masses while the AC register form black cladosporium mold.

Check for spots in and near your basements and closets. Occasionally mold does not develop as the result of a leak in your home but may occur as the result of humidity problems especially in areas with poor circulation like basements, closets, and bathrooms. Left unchecked, this may spread in your home. Mold on bathroom drywalls are typically black cladosporium while mold inside closets are powdery and are white or green in color. You can spot these molds best on black or dark surface.

Check for spots on water damaged building materials. Small spots, smug marks, or a powdery residue in damp areas is a sure sign of mold. Many mold spots are black, brown, green, or white in color. They start as just a fleck, typically just a few millimeters across but will easily spread if not restrained. To make sure that the spot is indeed mold and not just a by-product of a bad paint job, rub it with a piece of damp cloth. Molds tend to rub off on cloth or smear and leave a streak mark on the surface.

To be certain, hire a professional mold inspector. They have tools (moisture meters, humidity meters, and borescopes) specifically designed for this purpose.




Thank you for reading my article. Please visit Costume Jewelry Necklaces for more information on Vintage Bridal Jewelry





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年7月21日 星期六

Paint Problems - DIY Painting Tips


All painters know that painting in wet conditions or on a damp surface is asking for trouble. Your freshly-painted finish will quickly fall victim to ugly peeling and bubbling.

But what's the answer if peeling happens on a long-established painted surface? Most people would simply scrape and repaint if it only happens to a small area. But what if this is a widespread problem with paint peeling throughout a property? Then you have a mystery to solve - and a solution to come up with.

Development of damp

Paint will tend to peel and crack first around areas such as doors and windows, fans and heaters - usually areas where temperature changes frequently. A properly applied quality paint will be able to handle this, but a cheaper, improperly applied paint will be stressed by repeated heating and cooling and changes in moisture levels and it gradually loses adhesion.

If the peeling is in unexpected areas, look first for water damage or mould. Any leaks will quickly be evident, but also use a moisture meter to check for less obvious damp patches. Consider and check for less obvious sources of damp, such as standing water under the house, a humidity problem in the house (are kitchens, bathrooms and laundries properly vented?) or high condensation levels.

Painting over old wallpaper

This can usually be spotted straight away, with the huge clue being the paper peeling off with the paint!

Poor priming

If the painted surface was one that needed primer and no primer was used originally, then adding more layers of paint can ultimately result in peeling. This type of failure can take years, even decades, to manifest. The first few new coats of paint will not necessarily cause a problem - but as the weight of the painted surface builds up over time peeling can start.

Too much paint

Careless application of too many layers of paint can cause problems at a later date, with the ultimate weight of the coating causing it to peel away.

Poor quality paint

Using cheap paint, or thinning paint to make it go further is a cheapskate solution that often comes back to bite.

Poorly cleaned surfaces

Another way that some people cut corners to get the job done faster is not to clean the surface properly. If this happens with the first coat, then as with the primer problems, it may not manifest for some time. Additional coats of paint might also disguise the problem. Ultimately, however, the poor preparation will reveal itself.

Poorly applied texturing

If a spray texture has been badly applied and damp gets behind the paint, then over time the texture can re-emulsify and start to fall away from the walls - taking the paint with it.

Infestation

If all of the above have been ruled out then you have to consider termites or some other kind of infestation and in that case peeling paint is only the start of your problems. Get a pest inspector to check out the property

Solutions

Doing the job properly in the first place is the best solution - but years down the line that smug answer is particularly unhelpful.

If the peeling is restricted to specific areas and you have established that the problem is also restricted to that area, then you may be able to scrape back and repaint. Or you may be able to remediate by cutting out an affected surface - such as a patch of damp on a wooden door - filling and then repainting.

However, sadly if it's a widespread problem, the most common solution is to steam or scrape back to the original surface and start again. There is one workaround to this - a product called 'Bind Back', which can be applied to create a surface that can be repainted.




Natural landscape designer, gardener and DIY-er. Enjoys writing about anything garden and landscaping related. For the best landscape and building supplies visit: BC Sands - firewood for sale





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年6月10日 星期日

Paint Problems - DIY Painting Tips


All painters know that painting in wet conditions or on a damp surface is asking for trouble. Your freshly-painted finish will quickly fall victim to ugly peeling and bubbling.

But what's the answer if peeling happens on a long-established painted surface? Most people would simply scrape and repaint if it only happens to a small area. But what if this is a widespread problem with paint peeling throughout a property? Then you have a mystery to solve - and a solution to come up with.

Development of damp

Paint will tend to peel and crack first around areas such as doors and windows, fans and heaters - usually areas where temperature changes frequently. A properly applied quality paint will be able to handle this, but a cheaper, improperly applied paint will be stressed by repeated heating and cooling and changes in moisture levels and it gradually loses adhesion.

If the peeling is in unexpected areas, look first for water damage or mould. Any leaks will quickly be evident, but also use a moisture meter to check for less obvious damp patches. Consider and check for less obvious sources of damp, such as standing water under the house, a humidity problem in the house (are kitchens, bathrooms and laundries properly vented?) or high condensation levels.

Painting over old wallpaper

This can usually be spotted straight away, with the huge clue being the paper peeling off with the paint!

Poor priming

If the painted surface was one that needed primer and no primer was used originally, then adding more layers of paint can ultimately result in peeling. This type of failure can take years, even decades, to manifest. The first few new coats of paint will not necessarily cause a problem - but as the weight of the painted surface builds up over time peeling can start.

Too much paint

Careless application of too many layers of paint can cause problems at a later date, with the ultimate weight of the coating causing it to peel away.

Poor quality paint

Using cheap paint, or thinning paint to make it go further is a cheapskate solution that often comes back to bite.

Poorly cleaned surfaces

Another way that some people cut corners to get the job done faster is not to clean the surface properly. If this happens with the first coat, then as with the primer problems, it may not manifest for some time. Additional coats of paint might also disguise the problem. Ultimately, however, the poor preparation will reveal itself.

Poorly applied texturing

If a spray texture has been badly applied and damp gets behind the paint, then over time the texture can re-emulsify and start to fall away from the walls - taking the paint with it.

Infestation

If all of the above have been ruled out then you have to consider termites or some other kind of infestation and in that case peeling paint is only the start of your problems. Get a pest inspector to check out the property

Solutions

Doing the job properly in the first place is the best solution - but years down the line that smug answer is particularly unhelpful.

If the peeling is restricted to specific areas and you have established that the problem is also restricted to that area, then you may be able to scrape back and repaint. Or you may be able to remediate by cutting out an affected surface - such as a patch of damp on a wooden door - filling and then repainting.

However, sadly if it's a widespread problem, the most common solution is to steam or scrape back to the original surface and start again. There is one workaround to this - a product called 'Bind Back', which can be applied to create a surface that can be repainted.




Natural landscape designer, gardener and DIY-er. Enjoys writing about anything garden and landscaping related. For the best landscape and building supplies visit: BC Sands - firewood for sale





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2012年1月6日 星期五

Moisture / Mildew Problems: Q & A


Q: Gil, I think we have a mildew problem. It causes problems for my daughter when she comes to visit ... We think we may have to remove all the panelling and carpeting, apply something to kill the mildew on the walls and floors and refinish the affected basement rooms. -Helen Bates

A: It might not be necessary or advantageous to tear up the whole basement at this point. At any rate, if you don't remove the conditions which are supporting the growth of mildew, you'll likely have a recurrance. It's somewhat difficult to speculate, not having seen your home, but here are some things to consider...

Mould and mildew can occur in a house at almost any time of the year, if the moisture content of the building materials is about 20 percent or greater. High relative humidity, or saturation at or below grade, can create this condition.

A good plan of attack begins with decreasing dampness and increasing ventilation. Maintain a negative grade slope away from the house; and ensure that evestroughing, down-spouts and drains are free of debris, and properly directing water at least two meters away from your foundation wall. Even if your house is relatively new and has properly installed, working footing drains, excessive surface water can saturate the foundation wall, and evaporate to the interior faster than it can be drained away. Check to see if water pools anywhere beside the house during a downpour or period of melting.

Severe mould on inside wall and ceiling.Moisture problems can originate inside or outside the house, or both. In cooler weather, condensation will occur on any surface that is below the dew point of the air in contact with it (temperature at which condensation will occur at the existing humidity level). This moisture usually appears first on the inside surfaces of windows, and may also appear around door jambs and where outside walls meet the floor or ceiling. Closets can also become damp due to reduced air circulation. In warm, humid interior conditions, foundation walls may "sweat" profusely at any time of the year.

Dehumidifiers can remove large amounts of moisture from the home, and in summer, an air-conditioner is also a powerful dehumidifier;. Air conditioners however, consume considerable amounts of energy and may not be useful in spring and fall, when cooling is not required.

Ventilation is an effective and inexpensive means available to you for reducing humidity, and can be obtained by opening windows or operating an exhaust fan as soon as significant window condensation appears.

HANDY HINT

Throroughly dry a damp spot on an exposed foundation wall or floor with a hair dryer. Tape a 12 inch square of heavy plastic over the spot, and check it in one or two days. Seepage will cause the underside of the plastic to be wet, but condensation will form on the top side!

Q: We have a dehumidifier, but it is in the sump pump crawl space and probably doesn't do much good. If we turn it up very high, it just runs all the time. Maybe this is because it is pretty old, I'm not sure. It seemed to work fine in our last house.

A: The required size of dehumidifier will vary with conditions, and the size of the house - but in any house with a severe humidity problem such as yours, a new 60 pint (minimum size) dehumidifier with a drain hose directed to the sump or laundry drain should start to produce results. If you prefer to keep the crawl space closed, you'll likely need two machines.

THE BOTTOM LINE: First things first - look for external sources of moisture, then internal; and then study ventilation followed by dehumidification, and if necessary, insulation and/or vapor barriers where required.

A FEW QUESTIONS FOR HELEN:

1. How is your lot grading? (any slope toward house?) Settlement around the perimeter of the foundation?

2. Downspouts and drains in place?

3. What type of heating/ventilating systems do you have? Same in basement?

4. Is your kitchen range hood directed to the outdoors?

5. Bathroom exhaust fans installed and used regularly? Vented through the wall or roof (not into the attic, hopefully).

6. Clothes dryer vent directed to the outdoors?

7. Is ventilation provided for the basement?

8. Are any windows sweating?

9. How old is your house?

10. Construction: solid brick/brick veneer/siding etc.

11. Are roof/ridge/gable vents visible?

Also, check the lowest course of bricks for the presence of "weep holes" about every fourth mortar joint. (If your home is wood-framed with a brick facing, the mortar should be left out, to allow any condensation between the exterior sheathing and the brickwork to escape to the outdoors.)




Copyright Gil Strachan - All rights reserved.

Gil Strachan is a professional home inspector, representing Electrospec Home Inspection Services in east-central Ontario, Canada since 1994. Visit http://www.allaroundthehouse.com to learn more about home inspections.

"The Home Reference Book"
You can probably find a home inspection for a little less than what we ask, but you probably won't find the Home Reference Book. A $60 value, this solutions-oriented reference tool comes free with every inspection we perform.
It's the first tool you should have around the house!





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.

2011年12月4日 星期日

Ways to Detect Mold Problems


Mold and mildew problems occur rarely but you should be checked regularly since they can lead to possible health problems. Here are some simple steps for you to spot mold and mildew problems.

Inspect for odors. Musty / moldy be checked regularly odors in the vicinity of a leak is a sure sign of mold. Naturally, you're not supposed to be sniffing around for mold, or touching mold if you have or if there's a chance you may have a compromised immune system. Sniffing and such is a definite no-no if you or your family has a history of allergy, asthma, or any other conditions that would put you at risk of an adverse reaction resulting from any form of mold exposure.

Inspect for odors near your AC ducts. Turn your AC off for a while and then do your inspection. The longer the AC is off, the better. Next turn your AC back on and leave your thermostat alone for a while, turning it on and off to more than one cycle in several minutes can damage your compressor. Immediately after, stand directly under the path of air flowing from a duct. You will surely smell the musty mold odors blowing in your face if your AC unit or your homes ductwork is contaminated with mold. Again, sniffing and such is a definite no-no if there's a chance you may have a compromised immune system.

Check for mold on AC registers and coils. There's a high chance of mold problems in AC registers in humid places and coils in general. AC coils are made to form condensation when in the cooling mode after AC use; this feature aids the system to remove humidity from your air. Metal AC register grills become cold as air exiting your duct courses through them. The bottom sides of AC coils sometimes develop large amounts of velvety grey cladosporium mold or clear jelly like bacteria masses while the AC register form black cladosporium mold.

Check for spots in and near your basements and closets. Occasionally mold does not develop as the result of a leak in your home but may occur as the result of humidity problems especially in areas with poor circulation like basements, closets, and bathrooms. Left unchecked, this may spread in your home. Mold on bathroom drywalls are typically black cladosporium while mold inside closets are powdery and are white or green in color. You can spot these molds best on black or dark surface.

Check for spots on water damaged building materials. Small spots, smug marks, or a powdery residue in damp areas is a sure sign of mold. Many mold spots are black, brown, green, or white in color. They start as just a fleck, typically just a few millimeters across but will easily spread if not restrained. To make sure that the spot is indeed mold and not just a by-product of a bad paint job, rub it with a piece of damp cloth. Molds tend to rub off on cloth or smear and leave a streak mark on the surface.

To be certain, hire a professional mold inspector. They have tools (moisture meters, humidity meters, and borescopes) specifically designed for this purpose.




Thank you for reading my article. Please visit Costume Jewelry Necklaces for more information on Vintage Bridal Jewelry





This post was made using the Auto Blogging Software from WebMagnates.org This line will not appear when posts are made after activating the software to full version.